Shu Jiao Fu Zhou, Grand Street
Order: Peanut noodles and chive pork dumplings.
Five dollars gets you a bowl of thin wheat noodles slicked in peanut sauce that leans savory with pickled mustard greens chopped in for bite. The dumplings come boiled, slightly thicker skins, stuffed tight with pork and chives. Cash only. No website worth mentioning. You will eat shoulder to shoulder.
Wah Fung No. 1 Fast Food, Chrystie Street
Order: Roast pork over rice.
You will stand in line. It moves fast. They hack the pork in front of you, lacquered edges, glossy char siu glaze, and pile it high over white rice. Spoonful of cabbage on the side. It is under $10 and heavy in the bag. Cash preferred. The window setup tells you everything. Don’t linger.
Ling Kee Beef Jerky, Bayard Street
Order: Fresh sliced pork jerky, original flavor.
This is not the shrink-wrapped gas station stuff. They slice it thick from large sheets hanging behind the counter. Sweet, smoky, slightly sticky. Sold by weight. Cash only. Bring it home if you have self control.
Mei Lai Wah, Bayard Street
Order: Pineapple roast pork bun.
The top is crumbly and lightly sweet, the inside packed with hot barbecue pork. Ask for it warm. Around $2. Get in, get out.
It seems like carrying cash is the best way to eat good in NYC. It’s fast and tasty. What more could you want? Go find some flavor in Chinatown.
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