On 35th Avenue in Jackson Heights, a few doors down from a Texas BBQ sign that has no business being in Queens, the onions are stacked six feet high on the sidewalk in red mesh sacks. The awning reads FRESH FRUIT & VEGETABLES, MEAT & FISH in green block letters, and under the English, in Bengali script, it says the same thing the romanized name already says: machh. Fish. Mach Bazar. The fish market. The name is the whole pitch, and the pitch is honest.
