By Leila Molitor.

Listen: Oaxaca has seven distinct moles, and somehow, Brooklyn has mastered every single one of them. While most people think they know Mexican food, the Oaxacan kitchen is a different beast entirely. It’s a world of complex, smoky sauces that take days to simmer, hand-ground masa, and mezcal served exactly the way it was intended.

Since the 1980s, families from Oaxaca City, Tlacolula, and Mitla have been setting up shop in neighborhoods like Sunset Park and Bushwick. They aren't cooking for tourists; they’re cooking for the community, using ingredients like chilhuacle and ancho chilies imported directly from the source. You don't need a passport for this—just an appetite and a seat on the R or L train.

CLARO (Gowanus)

If you’re chasing those dark, complex, life-changing sauces, Claro is the gold standard. This isn't just "sauce"; it’s a three-day labor of love. Chef Ismael, who trained extensively in Oaxaca, treats the Mole Negro and Mole Rojo with the reverence they deserve.

Expect a plate where the mole is the star—rich, smoky, and layered with dozens of ingredients—poured over tender chicken with a side of fresh tortillas. It’s deep, it’s soul-stirring, and it’s arguably the best version of this dish you’ll find north of the border.

CASA AZUL (Park Slope)

While the dark moles get the fame, the lighter, herbal versions are where the nuance lives. Casa Azul specializes in these vibrant, fresh profiles.

Their Mole Amarillo and Mole Verde are masterclasses in balance. Using pumpkin seeds, fresh herbs, and spices brought in from Mexico, these sauces are served over chicken or pork. It’s a brighter, more aromatic side of Oaxacan cuisine that most people miss out on. These are family recipes passed down for generations, served in a room that feels like a warm embrace.

EL REGALO DE JUQUILA (Bushwick)

You cannot claim you’ve eaten Oaxacan food until you’ve tackled a Tlayuda. Often called "Oaxacan pizza," this is a massive, hand-pressed, semi-crispy tortilla that acts as a canvas for the region's best flavors.

At El Regalo de Juquila, they don’t hold back. The tlayuda is slathered with refried black beans, topped with strings of Oaxacan quesillo (the legendary melting cheese), and finished with tasajo or chorizo and avocado. Fold it like a giant taco or slice it up—either way, it’s the ultimate crispy, chewy street food staple.

ALL THINGS GOOD (Bushwick)

For a deeper dive into the world of corn, head to All Things Good. This spot is obsessed with the tradition of hand-ground masa. They specialize in Tetelas (triangular masa pockets stuffed with beans and squash) and Memelas (thick masa cakes topped with salsa and cheese).

The flavor here is all about the corn—rich, earthy, and fresh. It’s simple food executed with high-level technique, proving that you don't need a long list of ingredients when the foundation is this perfect.

OXOMOCO (Greenpoint)

To round out the trip, you need smoke and spirit. Oxomoco brings the fire—literally—with their wood-fired kitchen. It’s the perfect place to pair a Mezcal flight with more masa treats.

Sip your mezcal from traditional clay copitas served with orange slices and sal de gusano (worm salt). Pair it with their Memelas topped with squash blossoms. It’s the intersection of Brooklyn cool and Oaxacan tradition, keeping the flavors authentic while leaning into that Greenpoint energy.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Brooklyn has quietly become the mole capital of America. From the Spanish-only menus in Sunset Park to the refined kitchens of Gowanus, the Oaxacan community has built a home here. The techniques are unchanged, the ingredients are sourced from the earth, and the tradition is guarded by the families who live here. Stop scrolling and start walking. Respect the recipes, taste the tradition, and eat like a local.

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